Gathered beneath the iconic whale exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History, the New York fashion elite convened for the CFDA Awards, a spectacle that has become a staple in the city's fashion calendar. For the second consecutive year, the whale bore witness to a sea of elegance and sophistication, a testament to the creativity and flair of the fashion community.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards have long been considered one of the most prestigious events in American fashion. Established in 1985, these awards celebrate excellence in fashion design across various categories, recognizing both established icons and emerging talents. The event brings together designers, models, celebrities, and industry insiders for an evening of celebration and recognition.

Political Undertones: Fashion Meets Politics

The atmosphere was charged with an undercurrent of tension, a palpable sense of anticipation as the Presidential election loomed just a week ahead. Senator Kirsten Gillibrand set the tone with her opening remarks, imploring the audience to harness their influence to mobilize voters, urging them to give their all in the political arena. Though not typically associated with sports, the message resonated with the fashion-forward crowd.

Fashion has increasingly become a platform for political expression in recent years, with designers using their collections and public appearances to make statements on various social and political issues. The CFDA Awards, while primarily a celebration of fashion, also provided a platform for discussing the importance of civic engagement and the role of the fashion community in broader societal conversations.

The Power of Fashion: Dreams Made Tangible

Host Cynthia Erivo, adorned in a stunning Zac Posen creation complete with a dramatic hood, echoed the sentiment, reminding the attendees that fashion is a dream made tangible. This philosophy, first voiced by Anne Hathaway at the previous year's event, continues to resonate within the industry.

Fashion has always been more than just about clothing; it's about self-expression, identity, and the transformation of creative visions into wearable art. The CFDA Awards celebrate this transformative power, recognizing designers who have successfully translated their dreams and ideas into garments that resonate with consumers and critics alike.

Emotional Highpoint: Daniel Roseberry's Journey

The emotional pinnacle of the evening was reached with Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry's acceptance speech for the International Designer Award. Roseberry recounted his journey from unemployment at 33, sleeping on a tatami mat in a friend's apartment, to being offered the prestigious role at Schiaparelli, a French couture house. He would become the first American-born designer to hold such a position, a fact that was not lost on him five years prior.

Roseberry's story represents the rags-to-riches narrative that has long captivated the fashion world. His speech touched on the sacrifices and the dreams that led him to Paris, where he has been crafting a vision that stands in contrast to the mainstream fashion scene's fixation on desirability and popularity. His Schiaparelli has emerged as an inventive and unconventional force, redefining luxury with creations like a black velvet gown adorned with a massive fake lion's head at the shoulder.

Honoring Legacy: Isabel Toledo's Tribute

Ruben Toledo accepted the Board of Directors Award on behalf of his late wife, the Cuban designer Isabel Toledo. The award, now renamed in her honor, was a poignant moment as Toledo spoke of her spirit being present among them. He emphasized the importance of creating "heaven on earth" for one another and acknowledged the audience's role in allowing Isabel to soar to great heights.

Isabel Toledo's contributions to fashion were significant, particularly her innovative approach to color and silhouette. Her designs were celebrated for their intelligence and sophistication, often challenging conventional beauty standards. The renaming of the award in her honor ensures that her legacy continues to inspire future generations of designers.

Media and Innovation: Recognizing Contributions

Anna Wintour and Thom Browne collaborated to create a unique "fashion badge of honor," a tribute to rival the sword awarded to photographer Annie Leibovitz by the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Leibovitz also received the Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard, a double honor for her contributions to the field.

Editor Hamish Bowles was honored with the Founder's Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert, presented by Marc Jacobs, a recognition of his significant impact on the fashion industry.

Michael Kors was celebrated for his Positive Change Award, acknowledging his philanthropic work with Watch Hunger Stop, God's Love We Deliver, and the United Nations World Food Program. Presenter Blake Lively spoke warmly of his generosity, sharing personal anecdotes from her early days on Gossip Girl.

Stuart Vevers of Coach received the Amazon Innovation Award for Coachtopia, a sub-brand launched in 2023 that champions sustainable design by repurposing leftover leather into fashionable bags, a hit among Gen Z consumers.

Lifetime Achievement and Fashion Icon Awards

Stephen Burrows, who transitioned from designing for Andy Warhol's Max's Kansas City circle to becoming the youngest American fashion designer to showcase at the Battle of Versailles in 1973, was awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award by Donna Karan and Todd Oldham. Burrows, a multiple Coty award winner and a previous CFDA awardee, expressed his joy at receiving his fifth accolade.

Erykah Badu was honored with the Fashion Icon award, presented by her ex-partner and style icon Andre 3000, who arrived on stage with a traffic cone in tow. Badu, dressed in a custom Thom Browne ensemble and a jeweled headpiece by Chrishabana, delivered an endearingly rambling acceptance speech, playfully noting her lifelong ambition to win the award.

Recognizing Emerging Talent

The event was marked by a sense of excitement and satisfaction among the fashion editors, who felt that the awards were well-deserved, recognizing a new guard of designers who are reinvigorating New York's fashion scene. Willy Chavarria secured the American Menswear Designer of the Year title for the second consecutive year, while Luar's Raul Lopez claimed his second American Accessories Designer of the Year award. Zankov's Henry Zankov won the Google Shopping American Emerging Designer of the Year Prize for his playful knitwear. Diotima's Rachel Scott took home the American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award, following her previous win for the Emerging Designer award.

Conclusion: American Fashion's Strength

As Thom Browne stated in his opening remarks, "American fashion and creativity has never been stronger." The awards celebrated designers who are truly shaping our lives through the clothes we wear, a testament to the enduring influence of fashion on our culture and society.

Complete List of Winners and Presenters

• Founder’s Award in Honour of Eleanor Lambert: Hamish Bowles, presented by Marc Jacobs

• American accessory designer of the year: Raul Lopez for Luar, presented by Nicole Richie and Paris Hilton

• Media Award in Honour of Eugenia Shepard: Annie Leibovitz, presented by Anna Wintour

• Amazon Innovation Award: Stuart Vevers for Coachtopia, presented by Charles Melton and Kelsea Ballerini

• American menswear designer of the year: Willy Chavarria, presented by Troye Sivan

• Positive Change Award: Michael Kors, presented by Blake Lively

• Google Shopping American emerging designer of the year: Henry Zankov for Zankov, presented by Molly Gordon

• Isabel Toledo Board of Directors’ Tribute: Isabel Toledo, presented by Molly Ringwald to Ruben Toledo

• International designer of the year award: Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli, presented by Amy Griffin
• Fashion Icon Award: Erykah Badu, presented by Andre 3000
• American womenswear designer of the year: Rachel Scott for Diotima, presented by Da’Vine Joy Randolph