The allure of the rapid fashion cycle, with its fleeting dopamine highs, pales in comparison to the profound sense of well-being that stems from cultivating a minimalist wardrobe, as these advocates of simplicity and quality suggest. In his seminal 1994 publication, "Weniger, Aber Besser," the esteemed German industrial designer Dieter Rams articulated the philosophy that "good design is as little as possible." His words, though aimed at product design, resonate just as powerfully with our clothing choices.

This is especially true in the context of the past few decades, which have seen a dramatic increase in clothing consumption and a corresponding decrease in the quality and longevity of garments. Globally, the fashion industry churns out an estimated 80 to 150 billion new clothing items each year, while individuals now buy five times more clothing than in the 1980s, often discarding them after just seven to ten wears—a 36% drop from just 15 years ago.

AlamyCan adopting a minimalist approach to fashion lead to increased calm and happiness?

This shift is largely attributed to the pervasive influence of targeted online advertising, the relentless cycle of trends driven by social media, and the rise of ultra-fast-fashion markets that encourage consumers to buy more for less, chasing the fleeting rush of dopamine.

Despite this, the power of clothing to boost our mood is undeniable. Tiffanie Darke, a fashion writer and sustainability strategist, explains to that "fashion is about newness." She continues, "We, as individuals, are constantly seeking to evolve and refresh ourselves—be it with the arrival of a new season, a new year's resolution, or a new job.

Our personal growth is closely intertwined with our choice of clothing." Darke, who also serves as the interim CEO of Smartworks—a charity offering advice and clothing donations to women preparing for job interviews—believes that this personal evolution can still be achieved with a minimalist mindset.

This approach not only benefits the environment but, as a review by The Journal of Positive Psychology titled "Minimalism, Voluntary Simplicity and Wellbeing" suggests, also positively impacts our mental health.

In November 2022, a report by The Hot or Cool Institute indicated that to meet the global target of limiting warming to 1.5C by 2030, British consumers would need to limit their clothing purchases to no more than five new items per year.

This startling figure prompted Darke to launch the Rule of Five campaign, which challenges individuals to buy only five new clothing items annually (excluding socks and underwear) and to make four second-hand purchases. She notes that while the campaign began with environmental concerns, the most common response from participants was a desire to break free from the cycle of excessive consumption. Many feel overwhelmed by the constant pressure to buy more, which ultimately leads to a sense of emptiness and loss.

Broadleaf BooksAuthor of "What To Wear and Why," Tiffanie Darke advocates for a wardrobe centered around 10 key items

In September of this year, Darke published "What To Wear and Why," a book that delves into the environmental damage caused by shopping addiction and offers guidance on how to create a mindful, stylish wardrobe that liberates readers from the chains of consumerism. Drawing from her own experiences adhering to the Rule of Five, she outlines the first step: establishing a capsule wardrobe.

This curated collection of essential pieces should be functional, durable, perfectly fitting, and enhance the wearer's confidence. Darke, a proponent of the 80/20 rule (where 80% of one's wardrobe consists of "useful, basic classics" and the remaining 20% are more expressive "personality pieces"), has built her wardrobe around 10 key items, including a white cotton shirt, a smart jacket, comfortable trousers, and a playful knit.

"My capsule wardrobe has been an incredibly valuable guide," she shares. "Of course, it varies for everyone depending on their lifestyle, work, and climate, but studies suggest that we typically wear only 10 or 20 items on repeat throughout the year. So, a good starting point is to identify the items you reach for most often, which are usually very functional, and from there, you can determine your own list." Most of her new purchases over the past two years have been capsule items, along with a pair of impractical gold trousers and a "completely see-through" black crochet skirt.

'The Wardrobe Edit'

Another valuable resource for conscious shopping is "How to Wear Everything," the latest publication from Kay Barron, the fashion director of Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter. The book, which includes contributions from fashion icons such as Sarah Jessica Parker (discussing shoes), stylist Law Roach (known for Zendaya's iconic looks), and Jodie Turner Smith (a champion of colorful dressing), guides readers through the process of creating the perfect wardrobe. It covers everything from the often-dreaded task of finding the right jeans to understanding personal style, with tips on second-hand shopping, dressing for special occasions, and more.

Tom O'NeillFashion director and author Kay Barron advises performing a wardrobe edit "in a good mood"

For Barron, the ideal starting point is what she calls "the wardrobe edit"—a task that should be approached "in a good mood, with ample time and patience." She explains, "You take everything out of your wardrobe and try it on. Then, once you've assembled outfits from the items you enjoy wearing, you can identify what's missing." She recommends keeping a list of these "missing" items on your phone to guide future purchases.

One of Barron's top tips is to plan ahead: "If you can, it's better to buy something you love immediately rather than shopping in a panic for an upcoming event like a holiday or a wedding. That's akin to shopping for food when you're hungover and hungry; it leads to poor decisions and excessive spending!"

The wardrobe edit serves a dual purpose: it allows you to "shop" within your existing wardrobe. "When you rediscover something amazing that you already own, it's the best feeling in the world," Barron says. She also advises holding onto items like denim, as "low-slung boyfriend jeans and skinny jeans inevitably come back into fashion."

Tips for Creating a Capsule Wardrobe:

'Shop' within your existing wardrobe.

Balance useful basics with 'personality pieces.'

Consider rental services for special events or to experiment with new looks.

Darke also finds inspiration in her pre-existing wardrobe. "You only wear 30% of what you own, and even now, I'm only wearing 50 or 60% of that," she says. "The Rule of Five encourages you to become more creative and resourceful. You might realize that there are old dresses you haven't worn in ages that could be repurposed." She also mentions the new friendships she's formed since starting the campaign, from a seamstress who helps with alterations to the team at Save Your Wardrobe, who assist with everything from repairing moth holes to giving old pieces a new lease on life.

Rental businesses like By Rotation and My Wardrobe HQ are also endorsed by both experts, not only for special occasions but also as a way to experiment with different styles. "On social media, we're constantly bombarded with different people's styles—it's new, new, new all the time, and it's easy to get lost in it, to question your own style," says Barron. "Rental is a great, non-committal way to try something new." She also suggests starting small as a way of having fun and testing the waters for a new look, like her new pair of "Kermit the Frog" heels in a lime green she says she "would never wear next to my skin or face."

Barron and Darke are not alone in their quest for meaningful change that doesn't sacrifice the joy that clothing can bring. This year, designer and Great British Sewing Bee judge Patrick Grant released "Less: Stop Buying So Much Rubbish," a book that explores the rise of mass consumerism and how "having fewer, better things can make us happier." Additionally, "The Enoughness," a new podcast by fashion editor Melanie Rickey, features guests discussing what "just right" means to them, drawing on the Goldilocks Principle, and how achieving that balance has improved their lives.

The EnoughnessPodcaster Melanie Rickey believes that "stopping the endless wanting" has a positive effect on other aspects of life

Rickey's guests have included chef Yotam Ottelenghi, discussing his minimalist kitchen essentials, and sustainable fashion pioneers Aja Barber and Brett Staniland, who share their own strategies for embracing a less-is-more wardrobe. "The show's aim is to gradually shift our mindset to buying less, but better, and to frame that as an exciting pursuit, a game with only positive consequences," Rickey tells.

"Stopping the endless wanting has an incredibly positive effect on every other aspect of life." She notes that the main benefit is better decision-making and feeling good about those decisions. "Doing esteemable things builds self-esteem," she says, "and having less stuff makes room for more money, more time for experiencing life, and more playtime with what you already have."

Darke wholeheartedly agrees. "You can't sell anything on the fact that it's sustainable alone—we live in a society where nobody wants to live with less. It's about looking at what you'll gain from this approach, aside from its positive impact on the planet. And what I would say is that a) you'll save a significant amount of money and b) it's a really interesting exercise in self-knowledge. Being limited with your options forces you to think about who you are as you move through the world, and what you want to look like as you do, and that is really empowering."