Glamorous or Iconic? The Rise of Leopard Print

Dec 27, 2024 By Emma Thompson

Leopard print, that audacious and enigmatic pattern, has long danced on the fringes of fashion, a symbol of both rebellion and regality. It is a motif that has been embraced by the likes of iconic pin-ups and the so-called "mob wives," a style that has always been a subject of passionate debate. As the festive season draws near, this bold design has once again ascended to become the go-to style for celebrations, a testament to its enduring appeal and transformative power.


The pattern's distinctive blend of wildness and elegance has made it a perennial favorite across various cultural contexts. From ancient civilizations to modern runways, leopard print has evolved from a symbol of status and power to a mainstream fashion staple. Its ability to adapt to changing aesthetics and cultural norms reflects a unique resilience and versatility that few other fashion motifs can match.


The Historical Journey: From Royalty to Rebellion


The history of leopard print predates its modern fashion legacy. In ancient Africa and Asia, genuine leopard skins were symbols of status, donned by royalty and warriors. These majestic animals were associated with strength, agility, and mystery, qualities that made their pelts highly coveted. Archaeological findings have revealed leopard skin remnants in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs and as part of ceremonial attire in various African kingdoms.


The 20th century saw the material become more accessible, and Hollywood propelled the print into popular culture with the controversial Tarzan films, most notably in 1946's "Tarzan and the Leopard Woman." The film's portrayal of leopard print as exotic and primal sparked both fascination and criticism. Music icon Eartha Kitt adopted the print in an empowering move that reclaimed the fabric from these questionable associations with primitivism.


The 20th Century Shift: Leopard Print in Popular Culture


Jackie Kennedy helped to solidify its appeal – her 1962 leopard fur coat remains an inspiration to this day, and at the time, it was said to have sparked a fashion trend that led to the deaths of thousands of leopards. The link between leopard print and sophistication and sensuality was epitomized by Mrs. Robinson, portrayed by Anne Bancroft in "The Graduate," but once it transitioned from fur to a print, it wasn't always perceived as classy.


The shift from actual animal pelts to printed fabrics marked a significant moment in leopard print's history. This transition made the pattern available to a broader audience but also diluted its exclusivity. The 1960s and 1970s saw leopard print become a symbol of both glamour and garishness, depending on how it was styled and who wore it.


Television and Music: Leopard Print as a Character Trait


It was the signature look of iconic UK soap characters Bet Lynch of "Coronation Street" and Kat Slater of "EastEnders," as well as US TV character Peggy Bundy of "Married… with Children," in part to signal their supposed garishness and their resilience. However, pop stars including Mel B – or Scary Spice – and Amy Winehouse wore it with defiant pride. And the stylish leopard print aficionado Kate Moss has even included a coat in the print for her new collaboration with Zara.


These characters demonstrated how leopard print could be used to convey personality traits, whether it was the boldness of Bet Lynch or the rebellious spirit of Mel B. The pattern became a visual shorthand for certain types of women, whether they were portrayed as confident, brash, or unapologetically themselves.


Empowerment and Expression: The Pin-Up Connection


"It is perennially popular in burlesque," says Jo Weldon, author of "Fierce: The History of Leopard Print," who traces the print's seductive power back to the leopard itself. "They're nocturnal, enigmatic creatures, which adds to the print's allure."


Weldon's research highlights how leopard print has been embraced by communities that value self-expression and empowerment. The pin-up and burlesque worlds, in particular, have found in leopard print a motif that celebrates femininity without conforming to traditional norms of respectability.


Addressing Prejudices: Classism and Criticism


Despite her fondness for all things leopard print, Weldon is well aware of the lingering prejudice. "There will always be individuals who are dismissive, and say it is 'trashy', perhaps because of its associations with characters like Peggy Bundy or Kat Slater, but that criticism often stems from classism." And, she adds with a grin, "Those characters make me love the print even more!"


The perception of leopard print as "trashy" has been a recurring theme throughout its history. This judgment often reflects deeper societal biases related to class and gender, as certain styles become associated with marginalized or working-class communities.


Modern Attitudes: Gen Z's Role in Revival


Joy Montgomery of British Vogue echoes this sentiment. "There has always been a tension between this print embodying liberation and sexuality, as well as being powerful and yet feminine," she tells. Montgomery, who is the magazine's commerce editor, recalls a time, not long ago, when leopard print was associated with an outspoken, "certain type of woman." She adds, "Janice from 'Friends' comes to mind, as well as former Prime Minister Theresa May, who often wore leopard print heels, which sparked strong opinions."


According to Montgomery, attitudes have shifted in recent years, largely due to Gen Z's bold experimentation with fashion on TikTok. "Take the recent mob-wife trend, where suddenly, leopard print was all over our feeds." She adds, "This is a generation that loves a historical reference point or drawing inspiration from film characters, and it's great to see them playing with the print without any preconceived notions."


Vintage Shopping and Runway Influence


Gen Z's passion for vintage shopping has also fueled leopard print's resurgence. With the pattern's extensive history, second-hand pieces are readily available online or in vintage and charity shops. Montgomery does ponder whether older women feel the same freedom to experiment. However, she points out that the runways of autumn/winter 2024-2025 showcased a more refined approach, citing Dior's leopard trench coat and Alaïa's chic knitwear as examples.


The high-end fashion world's embrace of leopard print has played a crucial role in its rehabilitation. Designers like Dior and Alaïa have demonstrated how the pattern can be incorporated into sophisticated, contemporary designs that appeal to a broader demographic.


Designers' Perspectives: Normalizing the Print


"We saw labels like Ganni and Rixo feature leopard print in 2023, and again on the high-end runways of 24/25," says Christy Deering, a print designer who has observed the trend's evolution. Deering has designed more than 10 garments featuring leopard print in the past year alone, highlighting its versatility across different product categories.


Deering credits high-end labels, as well as "it-girl" brands, for making leopard print a neutral. "Where it once was considered a bold print," she says, "it can now be styled for day, night, work, and even sleep." This normalization has expanded the pattern's market potential, making it accessible to consumers with diverse style preferences.


Styling Strategies: From Accessories to Statement Pieces


Joy Montgomery offers practical advice for those looking to incorporate leopard print into

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